Bold and seductive aren’t always the adjectives used to describe the design aesthetics of Italian fashion house Emilio Pucci. But this season, designer Peter Dundas took on a more risky persona, veering away from their signature kaleidoscope prints and bohemian appeal.
Jaws were heard almost falling to the floor at the sight of the first look to emerge from the brand’s Fall collection—a sheer-sleeved black dress featuring sultry slits on the chest, hip and thigh. Thus began the collection’s play between overt sexiness and utter modesty. The looks that followed rebelled against effervescent refinement, with more thigh-high slits and revealing cut-outs set against sharply tailored pieces.
Despite this subversive air, dresses were surprisingly wearable. A simple black dress, for example, spelled elegance and sensuality courtesy of the sheer chest and sleeves and center slit that exuded allure and restraint. Several looks that featured see-through tops also delivered high-octane sexuality—a rarity in the Emilio Pucci dictionary.
The color palette was predominantly black, but pops of nude, blue and white cleansed the deeply enigmatic appeal of the collection. Although playing a minor role this season, the graphic prints also made several appearances, most notably in a blue jumpsuit under a crisp blue tuxedo trench. But perhaps what helped the select colors stood out is that they came in luxurious fabrics—shiny metallic, matte wools, silky crepes and lavish crocodile.
The evening gowns adhered to the same defiant stroke, but we especially loved the finale look: a white evening gown that teased with embellished diagonal slits. It was the fitting ending to Emilio Pucci’s rollercoaster ride of a show.
Images from Emilio Pucci