Maison Martin Margiela wasted no time in exploring their progressive creativity in their 15-piece “Artisinal” collection for the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week, which was the final house to unveil its couture collection. Closing the season in Paris, the avant-garde label embraced the core of the house as they expectedly retained their signature faceless models on the runway, and their penchant for creating new pieces from a variety of old and vintage finds.
The label put greater emphasis on the garments and pieces for the upper torso, exemplified by the simplicity of the sleek pants and lace skirts that dominated the 15-look collection. The first two looks to appear on the bare runway notably shared haphazardly finished edges, a nod to their unconventional aesthetics. In true nonconforming fashion, crystal doorknobs were transformed into vest closures while some were tied between the halter straps of shiny long dresses. Even mundane baseball gloves found its way into the label’s haute couture vision, appearing as a vest and bolero. Although the bannered the beauty in deconstruction, they weren’t immune from the haute couture necessities—glitz and glamour. The latter managed to appear on a stunning crystal-embellished vest and a bib-like top that draped like a necklace.
While Margiela does not have the same commercial following as the likes of Dior or Chanel, the label does have a cult following that’s uniquely enthralled by their offbeat design philosophy. To compare Margiela with the labels that showed before them is a criminal offense. Perhaps the way to look at the collection is to take it as an anesthetic to the barrage of glamour and larger-than-life concepts than came before them.
Photos from iMAXtree.com