Francisco Costa plays with prints, patterns
Posted by on June 10, 2012 | 2:30 pm EST

Francisco Costa rarely tests the waters when it comes to creating pieces for Calvin Klein. In a surprising turn of events however, the designer sent out a collection that pushed through the label’s minimalist boundaries. Case in point: the emergence of prints and patterns in the label’s Resort 2013 collection. The 22-look runway show, inspired by prints and textures from the desert, allowed a small preview into the minimalist house’s more adventurous side.

Although the first look did not stun—a double-breasted jacket paired with a billowy tea-length skirt—it did surprise the front row as it arrived with a yellow-and-white pattern. From then on, a slew of off-white, borderline nude ensembles sashayed down the concrete catwalk, upholding the collection’s desert-hinged color palette. By the ninth look, the nature inspirations came to true form with a burst of mustard yellow courtesy of a sleekly cut dress with a deep but conservative neckline, and a modern center slit. Pops of forest green brought the runway to life, as it appeared on a sporty dress that was delightfully on point in bringing the Calvin Klein aesthetics into the world of color.

The silhouettes remained faithful to the label’s architectural ingenuity. Lines were kept clean and sharp, while cuts were modern and often risky. Soft and flirty chiffon also came into play. The label was never about contrast, but Costa danced around this concept with looks layered over dreamy chiffon. For the final look, for instance, Costa thrust femininity and structure together as he draped silky chiffon over a bandeau top and skirt, which yielded a look that was superbly vulnerable and quietly resilient.

For the resort 2013 season, Costa may have delivered a refreshing medley of elongated slits, utilitarian vests, and riskier cuts, but it was decidedly Calvin Klein all the way—minimalist, luxurious and indisputably pure.

Photos from Calvin Klein

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